Day 3 Dragon’s Back Race recce – Dolgellau to Ceredigion over two days

Date: Tuesday 8th August 2023

Strava says: 28.45 miles

Elevation: 7,881 ft /  2,402 m

Weather: mixture of fog, sun and light rain

Start: Dolgellau

Finish: Machynlleth

Route type: recce, point to point

Conditions: very wet in places

Describe the route in three words: very slow go

Dolgellau to Machynlleth – Day 3 Dragon’s Back Race

I was a bit nervous about recceing this day as it was completely new territory to me and I wasn’t sure how difficult or technical it might be, especially around Cadair Idris as I know the path goes fairly close to steep drops in places. For this reason I was extremely happy to have roped in my friend Francis (my surprise crew from Beacons Way 100 and my unofficial positivity mentor!).

We parked up at The White Lion, our accommodation for the night, and my running friend Anya who lives down the road in Corris kindly collected us and delivered us to our start point. Anya owns and runs the phenomenal Granary Corris – make sure you check out this stunning accommodation!

We set off on our adventure at 10:02am. After a gentle footpath start it is then straight into the climb, a massive 2,900 ft! The path is pretty easy to follow, we were cautious however as I was really worried about going off path and leading Francis and I off the mountain. It was claggy too so it paid to have our wits about us. There are a fair few fences in places so I’m not sure you could accidentally go off the edge. We reached what I believed to be Checkpoint 1 Fence Corner at 11:31am and Gau Graig 683 m. If this was race day I’d have made it with only 11 minutes to spare.

Although I had poles with me, I chose not to use them as I feel that it is good to do it without so that on race day, if I use them, it should feel easier. The ground is pretty rocky and the elevation means not too much trotting as Francis called it. However, every time we did trot, we declared that we were now elite runners!

We reached a pile of stones at 12:01pm which looked like they had been a shelter at some point, seeing on the map that there is a shelter by the summit I declared this the top of Cadair Idris and much photo taking and selfies took place. I’m pretty sure this was in fact Mynydd Moel 863 m.

The route from there flattened for a teeny bit and then continues upwards. Eventually we saw a trig point. We went to it and I wondered what this mountain was, the clag lifted and revealed a very definite shelter. A-ha, this is actually the summit! Two Scottish lasses turned up and shared their rhubarb and ginger gin with us. We reached Checkpoint 2, the trig of Cadair Idris 893 m at 12:22pm, 2 hours and 20 minutes since starting, this would mean I’d have made it with only 10 minutes to spare on race day.

The Pony Path down from here is very rocky and reminded me a bit of Jacob’s Ladder on the way down from Pen y Fan.

1.20pm saw beautiful views of Llyn Cyri and a descent following a fence line.

I was keeping an eye out for ‘Fence Corner’ which is a checkpoint, I had many false alarms, I was following along on the map but we were just covering the ground so slowly we never seemed to be as far along the route as I thought. The ground was either very rocky and difficult to keep pace on, or it was very grassy and boggy, which would swallow your foot occasionally. Any clear run we did get, we made the most of it. We noticed that the route is marked by stone piles so it is easy enough to follow. I think we did perhaps reach Checkpoint 3 Fence Corner at 2:02pm, which meant we’d taken 4 hours, exactly the time allowed on race day. Francis used the opportunity to sit down and crack his back which he said was very satisfying!

We started an enjoyable descent but had to really keep an eye on the route as we did go off course here and there. We needed to pass through a field of very fit looking young bulls, their coats were shining with good condition, they looked very muscular and fast.

We could see the yellow route marker which was in their line, we opted for the long way round, giving them a wide berth and keeping our eyes low and moving at a walk. Neither of us fancied getting into a chase with these guys! Francis reminded me that we didn’t need to be the fastest runners, just faster than someone else… I reminded him there were only two of us! I don’t fancy my chances in a race against Francis, or the bulls for that matter! We finally reached Checkpoint 5 Campsite at around 3pm, it had taken us 5 hours to get here (race day allows 6 hours 15 minutes). Just as well as Francis was out of water and I was pretty low myself, even though I had started with around 2 litres. We refilled, used the toilets and changed our socks, my feet were absolutely soaked. I made a mental note to start off with waterproof socks on this day during the Dragon’s Back Race and to also carry lots of water.

We set off from the campsite and the route from here is much easier in terms of terrain. We crossed over a railway line, past waterfalls and then had a super steep climb up Tarren Hendre. I was able to power hike my way up, Francis was using a method where he would climb for 50 then rest for 50. He’s a really strong (and fast) runner but not currently trained for the longer distances.

It felt like a long path to Tarren y Gesail which is the out and back. It was fairly overgrown, it was deep grass in places and also narrow making it difficult to get any sort of pace on. It was frustrating to say the least, we broke up our frustration by Francis eating his long awaited apple (which I’m sure had been dropped on the floor every time he had opened his bag) and I had something to eat too. We finally reached the base of Tarren y Gesail which my friend Kev had declared “short and annoying” he hadn’t mentioned how steep it was! It only took around 15 minutes from setting off at the bottom to reach the top, running along the ridge and admiring the setting sun from the trig, Tarren y Gesail 6:15pm.

It was now going to be downhill all the way into Machynlleth. However this route continued to prove frustrating, it was not easy downhill running. There were many places with crazy slippery rocks, or mud, or roots, or more rock. It was difficult to run much of it. We finally reached tarmac and it was actually a relief just being able to get a bit of pace going. This route had left me feeling a bit alarmed to say the least. Nine and a half hours to cover 28 miles, it’s too long, how on earth am I going to make cut off on race day? If this had been race day, I’d have made it with only 45 minutes to spare. I’d done this on fresh legs too. Let’s hope tomorrow’s miles are a lot more runnable so I can claw some time back.

Machynlleth will be a real joy to reach on race day as there are so many food choices! A petrol station, a Spar with a Greggs inside, a Co-Op, a fish and chip shop amongst others. I believe we will be going through on Wednesday’s market day so there will be a selection of goodies from the market stalls too!

Results

Elapsed time: 9 hr 29 m 53 s

Strava route: https://www.strava.com/activities/9608355273

Machynlleth to Ceredigion – Day 3 Dragon’s Back Race

Date: Wednesday 9th August 2023

Strava says: 16.25 miles

Elevation: 3,786 ft / 1,154 m

Weather: sunshine

Start: Machynlleth

Finish: Ceredigion

Route type: recce, point to point

Conditions: soft

Describe the route in three words: finally, fast miles!

Day two of our mid Wales adventure. Francis decided that he didn’t want to do the full 16 miles. We agreed he’d run out with me for the first 5 then turn back and I would continue on alone. He would then meet me in the car at the end. Francis had popped to Greggs in the Spar and kindly got me a vegan sausage roll and some crisps whilst I had done some work emails. We set off at 9.40am, spirits high after a restful night. I’d had a porridge pot for breakfast, Francis confessed he’d had some salted potatoes already (he usually fasts between 8am and 12pm). Yesterday’s adventure had clearly left him ravenous. 

We passed thorough the bustling high street which was filled with market stalls. We turned just before the Co-Op and passed some fields where sheep dog trials were taking place. We stopped to watch for a few minutes, neither of us having seen them live before, I’d loved watching them on TV as a child and had always wanted to see it happened in person!

The first 5 miles of the route were really, really nice, mostly following the Glyndwr’s Way. Much more undulating and certainly more runnable than the day before. There was a long steady uphill track which culminated in a fairly steep but short climb, Francis turned back before the last bit of climb as he was already over the 5 mile marker. We spent a few minutes discussing a plan A, B and C for how to pick me up, depending on the various phone signal situations.

I continued on and I must say, had a really brilliant run. The miles were getting ticked off so much quicker than yesterday which was putting my mind at ease.

Just before we parted company, Francis had asked me how many chickens my husband and I have, I actually wasn’t sure and told him I would go through all their names once I was solo. So that’s exactly what I did! I spent a few minutes going through the chicken register and can say we have 23 chickens! Tinsel, Pocket, Innis, Jazz, Bauble, Bubble, Dino, Chicken Itza, Dusky, Dune, Beaky, Belle, Bobbin, Breeze, Windy, Maple, Olga, Cleo, Banjo, Mere, Eggnog and Cinnamon the cockerel.

I could see on my map that I was to pass through a farm and then head along a track, it was 11:55am, time for my vegan sausage roll! I saw an option of either a hill or a lovely flat path, I headed up the hill. I then checked the route and realised this was wrong. It is definitely ingrained in me to see a hill and head up it!

The path was another nice easy one to follow. I had to bear off to the left by a rocky outcrop to cross a grassy area and go over a bridge, 12:21pm.

There is then a bit of a climb followed by a very grassy non trail which leads to the resovoir Lyyn Llygad-Rheidol. I made a mental note to get my poles out of this section, for both the climb and the grassy stretch as it was an absolute pain to get through as I couldn’t see where my feet were going. Poles would at least allow me to test the depth of the grass and find out where solid ground is.

After reaching the Lyyn Llygad-Rheidol at 12:49pm it was time to head up the last climb of the day, Pen Pumlumon Fawr, the highest point of the Cambrian Mountains.

I got chatting to a family on the way up after the father had asked me where I had run from. The children were planning to swim in the water (not sure if this is allowed?!). I reached the Checkpoint 11 Pen Pumlumon Fawr 752 m trig at 1:18pm. It had taken around 30 minutes from the bottom, but I’d say around 10 of that was chatting to the family.

Race day allows 4 hours 20 minutes from Checkpoint 9 in Machynlleth to here, it had taken me just under 3 hours 40 minutes.

The clag came in and the wind had picked up. A lovely couple asked where I was headed and we briefly chatted. Now it was time to go downwards for the last few miles. I needed to go over the style which is close to the trig then follow the fence line, this was the Cambrian Way. The path opens up to a lovely grassy track which then becomes gravel for a little while. I spotted a mobile phone mast so took the opportunity to text Francis with my progress, 1:37pm, I was on 13.8 miles at that point so not too far to go at all.

The last part is through some sheep fields, pay attention to look for the style in the corner that you need to aim for.

I popped out onto the road at around 2.15pm, this day had been loads quicker than the day before and I felt relieved to know that although Day 3 is a bit of a slog, there is potential to make up some time after Machynlleth and try for a fast finish.

Results

Elapsed time: 4 hr 33 m 16 s

Strava route: https://www.strava.com/activities/9613413276